The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress
by Ninya Mikhaila, Jane Malcolm-Davies
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Book Summary Information
Author: Jane Malcolm-Davies, Ninya MikhailaEdition: Paperback
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 2006-04-01
ISBN: 0896762556
Number of pages: 160
Publisher: Costume and Fashion Press
Book Reviews of The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress
Book Review: Outstanding, well-researched, beautifully realized volume
Summary: 5 Stars
I have had this book in my possession for less than a week and I'm already beating it up, creasing the pages and getting it dirty and telling everyone I know about it.
I used to be a hardcore renaissance faire actor and boothie, and I own the usual sources: Janet Winter's and Carolyn Savoy's "Elizabethan Costuming for the Years 1550-1580"; Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion" and Herbert Norris' "Tudor Costume and Fashion." All are commonly relied on by ren faire/SCA participants, though all three have their commonly-agreed-upon weaknesses.
Ms. Mikhaila and Ms. Malcolm-Davies should be commended for the scope and depth of the manual they have created. The writing is succinct, intelligent and accessible. The book dives right in with an assessment of researching historical costume, the strengths and weaknesses of primary sources, and a thorough overview of what was being worn by whom and why. There is even a series of small line drawings (over 40) showing what was worn by the common people and the nobility, basic sorts of silhouettes to work from. The first chapters are filled with portraits, line drawings and photographs of actual clothing of the time period, including some works and pieces I have never seen reproduced in other art, history or costume volumes. There is an entire chapter on fabrics and garment creation and structure, including a table discussing the various materials.
Then the book plunges immediately into construction techniques. Although experts won't need the descriptions of stitches or instructions on using patterns, part of the appeal of this book is in its completeness and the details. The subject of Tudor costuming is covered meticulously, and yet, there are no wasted words, no filler, nothing that won't be useful, informative or entertaining. It's comprehensive, but not exhaustive. I read the entire book, cover to cover, in a couple days' time (admittedly, I read it at every opportunity, often foregoing sleep and whatever else that did not seem important).
Amazingly, the majority of this book covers the actual pieces of clothing to be made. It starts with the foundation pieces for both genders, moves along to all the various possibilities: hose, doublets and more for men; gowns, bodices, kirtles, partlets and more for women, plus ruffs, cuffs, collars, hats, even hair -- and each one is carefully described as to the construction, with careful illustrations and actual photographs of garments during creation. "Henrician" (I have not heard such term before), Elizabethan and late Elizabethan costumes are covered in equal detail. With all due respect to Ms. Winter and Ms. Savoy, I was floored by the instructions, and I felt far more confidence in the process than I did with "Elizabethan Costuming." I am not a beginner, but my feeling is that a novice with a basic sewing background, after carefully reading the instructions, could construct any of the described garments.
Has footnotes, a bibliography and a small but quality list of suppliers.
There are not enough superlatives to use to describe this delicious book. I highly recommend it, would give it six stars if the rating system would let me.
Summary of The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress
A valuable sourcebook for costume designers, dressmakers and those involved in historical reenactments, this book contains all the information you need to create authentic clothes from the Tudor period. Computer-generated, historically accurate patterns enable you to make a wide range of garments, such as doublets, hose, bodices, skirts, hats and headdresses -- even underwear. There are also plenty of ideas for decoration and embellishment such as ruffs, cuffs, collars, embroidery and other surface decoration. The full range of Tudor society is represented, including lower- and middle-class clothing as well as the more sumptuous costumes from the courts of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I. There is also information on how to store and look after your finished clothing. In addition to the patterns, there are detailed drawings of each costume and information about historical context, including original paintings and source material.Performing Arts Books
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