The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest by Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston DeWalt
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Book Reviews of The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest
Book Review: The debate goes on
Summary: 5 Stars
Anyone who needs to place blame about the 1996 Everest disaster can pick one of many problems that happened on that climb -from manmade to "acts of God". Into Thin Air gives one climber's view, the documentary, Storm Over Everest, by David Breashears gives more views by those who climbed, and Boukreev's The Climb gives his account. Each persons' experiences and memories are different so few of them will ever match each others, and blame will never be able to be fully placed.
This is a more tedious book to read than Into Thin Air, but what a gift to read about this incredible man who appeared a bit of a villain in Krakauer's book. Boukreev seems like he was a unique, caring man, a poet in his love of the mountains, and of great physical and mental strength. He knew he belonged on the mountains, lived his life embracing them and eventually died there. Why? Because no one can be in control of nature, certainly not in extreme circumstances like high-altitude climbing. Those that feel they can keep themselves safe with the addition of "guiding" a group of climbers is acting with an even increased amount of hubrus. Even the brilliant Boukreev, as a consultant, could barely keep his expedition to Everest in 1997 together.
Those of you with dreams - I wish you luck in your endeavors but let the Everest disaster be a warning - know your field, know what is expected and don't count on others to push you through.
Read this book to understand the heart of those who push past limits to do what they love.
Book Review: UNCONDITIONAL BOUKREEV , Joseph Aragon
Summary: 5 Stars
I am a twenty five year old male with many passions. One of my largest passions lies among the stories and information I absorb about the beautiful and illusive Everest. After reading the book I have only the deepest respect for Mr Anatoli Boukreev. The knowledge shared by Anatoli is through shear experience and love for the game. The true passion for what one loves often incourages us to exceed even our own expectations as shared with you in this story of confusion, chaos, and heroism.
Anatoli takes you on an emotional trip from the states to kathmandu and on to the top of the world. Although a great hero Anatoli and G. Weston DeWalt do an excellent job of maintaining a modest and humble story that reminds us of how even in the most chaotic of times one individual can rise above his/her own selflessness and survive on complete compassion to save another.
The naration by Anatoli himself is inspirational in itself. Anatoli is not the best with english, but is very precice and accurate in his descriptions which take you there.
I would simply like to thank Anatoli Boukreev for sharing his experience and passions with us. Truly an inspirational story of self will and love that shows what is in all if you can look beyond "I" and remember it is better to give than receive. An unconditional love.
Book Review: Everest Must Read
Summary: 5 Stars
I read most of what's written about Mt. Everest and other climbing adventures but I only climb through the adventures of others. While I read "Into Thin Air" when it first came out, I only recently got around to reading Mr. Boukreev's excellent recitation of the tragic events of the '96 spring climbing season events as he experienced them. Mr. Boukreev's recounting of this tragic day in the history of Everest climbing is a great adventure story with many lessons about the realities of high altitude climbing, commercial expeditions, and the variables that come in such an extreame environment. "Into Thin Air" offers one perspective. "The Climb" offers a different perspective written by a participant in the event with an extensive resume of high altitude successes. A narrow-minded person could say that "The Climb" is Messrs. Boukreev and DeWalt writing about the greatness of Mr. Boukreev. To them I'd say "Why not?" Mr. Boukreev has earned his place in high altitude climbing and his actions in the '96 tradegy were nothing but heroic. This is a must read for an adventure reader and certainly for students of Everest climbing. My recommendation is to read both "The Climb" and "Into Thin Air". It's not an "either" "or" type of question. Both are must reads.Book Review: World Class High Altitude Climber and Man You Wish You Knew
Summary: 5 Stars
This book was written primarily in response to Krakauer's "Into Thin Air." There is a heavy ring of truth in recounting and documentation of the May 1996 disaster on Everest, which makes me discount some of the "factual" reporting of Krakauer in his book.The story is gripping. Hard to put down; hard to imagine the difficulties and horrors of those dreadful two days.
In the end, I found Boukreev to be a remarkable man, a superb climber, and courageous - without doubt, a person I wish I had been able to meet. He also was a fine expedition planner, and very aware of the pitfalls and dangers of high altitude climbing. Indeed this book could be used as a checklist for expedition organization.
In 1997, he received high recognition from the American Alpine Club for his rescue efforts on Everest, and respect of members of the high altitude climbing community. We must, however, regret that he was tragically killed later that year on a winter climb of Annapurna on Christmas Day, dying before his public reputation was fully restored. This accident also prevented him from completing his mission at that time, to return to Kazakhstan to help organize and promote high altitude climbing in his adopted country.
Book Review: LIke Anything Russian, It's Crude but Effective
Summary: 5 Stars
I read Krakauer's book first and then I read Anatoli's book. I had the following reactions: First, Krakauer has a way of making broad sweeping statements, as in "all of the Sherpa's hated Boukreev." How would he know that? Second, he assumes that Boukreev decided on his own to descend from the summit when he did. Third, it was Boukreev, not Krakauer or anyone else who after arriving at the camp, turned around and rescued three of the stranded climbers. Fourth, when Boukreev asked Krakauer to go with him on his rescue attempt, Krakauer refused. Finally, after reviewing all of the evidence from multible sources, including "Into Thin Air" the American Alpine Club awarded Boukreev it's heroism award for his attempt to save lives during the 1996 Everest Expedition. Into Thin Air is slick, written for Outside Magazine readers who hike and climb in only the most up to date uber expensive gear. It looks good, it sounds good, but its not real. Boukreev's account is crude, definitely not slick, but like a old school pair of boots or backpack, it works and keeps on working. It's True.