The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest by Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston DeWalt
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Book Reviews of The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest
Book Review: Amazing Story by an Amazing Man
Summary: 5 Stars
The Climb may have been written to refute Jon Krakauer's book Into Thin Air; but it goes beyond. Boukreev was an elite climber with the 20 years experience, knowlege of the mountains and the bravery to do what no one else could have- bring climbers stranded high on Everest in a storm to safety. While the writing style of the book got a little tedious ( G. Weston DeWalt narrates with inserts in broken English from Boukreev); nothing can take away from its scope. The part where Boukreev describes his regret at not being able to save Scott Fischer and Yasuko Namba are extremely moving. It is clear that he was a strong, elite climber caught up in an expedition that wasn't well organized with climbers who probably weren't totally suited for Everest. It seemed many of the climbers didn't like him because he didn't hold their hands and pamper them throughout the climb. He lamented at one point that he felt he had been hired to " prepare the mountain for the climbers"- something it is impossible to do. It is the climbers who need to be ready for the mountain.If the climbers aren't prepared for the mountain and able to take some actions independently; even the most elite guides cannot ensure their safety. Yet Boukreev did what Jon Krakauer and others didn't have the strength, courage, or ability to do- save lives at great risk to his own. Having read Into Thin Air, too, I am well aware of the allegations Krakauer makes regarding Boukreev's responsibilities that day and his climbing without oxygen. But Boukreev was, by all accounts, in such amazing physical shape and had attuned to functioning well at altitude without it. (He even had strength to help Sherpas pitch tents and fix ropes.) I believe Boukreev's explanation that it is better for him to guide without O2, since that is what his body is accustomed to; than to use it and crash when it runs out. And he did carry a bottle on summit day for emergencies. In the second conversation between Boukreev and Scott Fischer on summit day; Fischer agreed that it was best for Boukreev to descend quickly to be available to bring O2 to climbers in case of an emergency. Yet Krauauer insists this second conversation NEVER HAPPENED. How does he know? Was he dogging their heels every minute of the descent? If Boukreev HAD stayed high on the mountain that day, he would've been trapped in the same situation as the stranded climbers and probably wouldn't have been in a position to help anyone! Perhaps Mr. Krakauer felt a bit ashamed that even after guiding Everest without O2, Boukreev had the necessary physical and mental energy to make several forays into the storm to rescue lost climbers and even attempt a last ditch effort to rescue Fischer and all Krakauer did was sleep as people were dying on the mountain. In fact, by Krakauer's own admission in Into Thin Air; the climbers on his expedition were even less prepared and experienced to take on Everest than Fischer's were. Could it be he feels some guilt at being unable to react to the situation because he was out of his league and he therefore must assign blame elsewhere? Certainly Krakauer realizes that even in an organized expedition, things happen that cannot be planned for or controlled. All guides can do is make the best decisions in difficult circumstances- which Boukreev did. Boukreev offered his expert advice on the lack of preparedness of the clients, the acclimatization routine, the lack of radios, etc. and was ignored. He was thrust into an expedition fated for disaster and, when the chips were down, showed his bravery and true character. Just as Krakauer showed his by doing nothing when it mattered and criticizing later. I was devastated to hear of Anatoli Boukreev's death in an avalanche on Annapurna on Christmas Day 1997. He died in the way I'm sure he would've wanted to; a daring, almost unheard of attempt of man against the mountain in winter. It is fitting that he died doing what he was best suited for- well prepared challenge of man against mountain; instead of while guiding the ill prepared up the peaks. He died doing what he loved most and he remains forever, body and soul, in the place he loved best; the only place he felt "my shoulders straightening, squaring, like the birds as they straighten their wings." I am sure he is greatly missed by his family, friends, and climbing affectionadoes. I feel cheated that I will not get to read any more about his determined, hubris-filled assaults on the 8,000m peaks. He died as he lived; a courageous, determined, magnificent athlete; and a true hero. Rest in peace, Anatoli- you and your heroism won't be forgotten.Book Review: Drama vs. Documentary
Summary: 5 Stars
With a tragedy, hardly can the public resist the desire for a story. Even better, a dramatic personal narrative with which the readers experience the ups and downs of the event from a first person perspective plus a heroic survival. All these are exactly what Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer offers.
I read ITA in a rush, couldn't put it down, and searched for other accounts of the event. All these demonstrate how successful ITA is as a popular read. The Climb is the second book on the event I picked up, and despite that, granted, TC is much less engaging compare to ITA, I value what's being offered in the book much more. ITA is dramatic; TC is objective and professional. ITA is constructed using personal observations, speculations, and opinions by Jon Krakauer as a writer and a story teller; TC offers factual records and direct quotes from multiple perspectives. ITA creates suspense; TC teaches us about complexity and human conditions.
I was bewildered when learned that Krakauer's account of his encounter with Beck Weathers (when he offered to help Beck) is quite the opposite from Beck Weathers's recollection (in which Jon refused by saying that he is not a guide). And I deeply sympathize with Anatoli Boukreev for his position as a professional mountaineer who encountered both language and cultural barriers yet still tried to navigate within these obstacles and did the best he can using his intuitions and judgments from years of experience. Compared to Anatoli's moment by moment knowing what he is doing as a high-altitude expert, Jon comes across as exactly who he is - an ambitious novice and a client wanting to achieve and to be served.
The Climb shows us human conditions - the mishaps, the judgments based on incomplete information, the confusions, the drive, the will to preserve oneself, and, in some cases, courage and human grace.
I highly recommended The Climb to those who have read Into Thin Air.
Without reading The Climb, you are left with a severely incomplete story, missing tons of opportunities for deeper reflections.
Book Review: An honest, straightforward account.
Summary: 5 Stars
You'll know it as soon as you get into it. Boukreev and DeWalt aren't slick; they wrote an account of events that rings true. If you read Krakauer's Into Thin Air, you'll know what I mean by slick writing. And if you read any later Krakauer works (Under the Banner of Heaven), you'll also understand how he starts with a pre-formed opinion of a topic, then proceeds to "investigate". The man does hatchet jobs on people, and he certainly chopped up Boukreev pretty good.
If Boukreev was such a lousy guide, why did he get a meritorious medal? Why did he turn around and go after 3 stranded people on Everest? Does that seem like a selfish coward? I don't think so. Cowards stay in their tents. Why would Krakauer assume the worst about a guy like that, and not accept his explanations? Krakauer wrote that he had more than a little guilt from own inabilities and non-actions, and wrote Into Thin Air partly as a catharsis, so maybe he just needed to share the load. Whatever the reason, after reading The Climb, Anatoli comes off as a big man, in my opinion, speaking well and complimentary about most everybody involved in that expedition, even those who didn't deserve it. And Krakauer? If he approaches you on the street and wants to chat, run like hell. Don't say anything he can use in a book.
The Climb gives a great understanding of what all goes on to pull together a remote climbing expedition. Some people say its difficult to read because it interlaces Boukreev's translated narrative with sections written by DeWalt. Two different kinds of type are used to distinguish the difference. It's not hard; it reads easy. It's enjoyable, exciting and interesting, and mostly -- it reads true. Check it out for yourself, read both books, and then ask yourself who you would rather have a beer with after a hike, Boukreev or Krakauer? That will be a pretty good intuitive yardstick of where you think the truth is located.
Book Review: Must read this together with Into Thin Air
Summary: 5 Stars
After i read Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air, i thought i knew all there was to know about the 1996 Everest tragedy. Was i wrong.
In Jon's book, Toli (Anatoli) was cast as a villian who knowingly put his clients at risks. After reading this book, i felt that Toli was the real hero in the tragedy. A few things strucked me:
1. Toli came across as a humble and private person who just wanted to be in the mountains. This almost spiritual tie with the mountains shone throughout this book. Climbing mountains was all he ever wanted to do.
2. Unlike Jon's book, this one didn't indulge in any conjectures. This gave Toli's account an air of honesty and somewhat more credibility.
3. Toli was a superb climber (probably the best on both expeditions) trained in the best Soviet traditions whose actions on Everest were made based on what he thought was best for the safety of the clients. It was way too easy for Jon and others, especially amateurs, to restrospectively point fingers at him.
4. Quite a number of people owed their lives to his personal bravery. I thought that this fact is the most telling point in the entire tragedy.
5. Toli's poor command of English hampered him in his work in the expeditions and prevented him from explaining why he did certain things. This unfortunate fact alone could have cast him in a bad light on everyone's account of what happened.
Read both books to find out what happened in 1996 but be wary of Jon's biased and ungrounded conjectures. Jon's book is by no means the official account of what happened. Read Toli's account to get a balanced view. Personally, i'm more inclined to believe in Toli's account. I was sad when i found out that this heroic man died in his beloved mountains in 1997.
Read both books and see if you agree with me.
Book Review: EXTREMELY INFORMATIVE
Summary: 5 Stars
I gave Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air five stars because it was a thrilling and very readable account of the 1996 Mt. Everest disaster. However, as the previous reviewer, Robert Duran, has stated, credibility counts, especially when reviewing a book of this type. The Climb is not as well-written as Into Thin Air, but it still gets five stars in my book for its accuracy and detached, observant tone. Unlike Krakauer, who puts himself in the center of every scene, Boukreev remains impartial and conveys little emotion. Personally, I accpet Boukreev's account as the truer of the two. Krakauer should be ashamed of himself. He painted Sandy Hill Pittman has the "bad girl" of the expedition when Pittman actually has more high altitude climbing experience than does Krakauer! Krakauer also strongly hinted that Pittman and Mountain Madness expedition leader, Scott Fischer, were having an affair, but the woman having an affair was Lene Gammelgaard, a longtime "friend" of Fischer's whom he invited along on the expedition without making her pay a fee. (Pitttman, in contrast, paid everything owed before the climb, and I know if I need help on Everest I would rather depend on Pittman than on Krakauer any day.) I won't go into the other factual errors of Krakauer's book because previous reviewers have already done a better job than I. If you've read Into Thin Air, (and it IS exciting) no matter what you think about it, do read The Climb as well to balance things out and help you come to your own conclusions.