Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket by Editors of Creative Publishing
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Book Reviews of Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket
Book Review: The most comprehensive book on tailoring
Summary: 4 Stars
I have not come across a book that would go into so much detail as this one. Although the styles are slightly outdated, the methods still hold their own in the world of fashion. As a teacher at a design school this book is absolutely essential in the construction process.Book Review: Excellent Tailoring Reference
Summary: 4 Stars
I agree with everyone's opinions here and confirm that this book has the same content in the Singer Tailoring book that is part of the useful Singer Sewing Reference Lirary series published in 1988 by Cy DeCosse Inc. The table of content are a spot-on-match to the Singer original as are the clear photos using contrasting thread for clarity.
The explantions of using fusible interfacing (which tailoring purist in the past would turn their nose up at as being low class and cheap) and machine stitching instead of pad-stitiching, both of which are found in today's expensive Armani clothes, are very helpful.
I have just about every tailoring book published, including the Adele Margolis, Roberto Cabrera and Stanley Hostek classics, but this is the book I reach for often.
Book Review: Learned a lot from this one!
Summary: 5 Stars
This book is great, as long as you are an experienced seamstress [sorry for the possible sexist misunderstanding]. Really great tips and hints for someone who has significant experience with sewing and/or tailoring. Wonderful photos!Book Review: comprehensive illustrated tailoring guide
Summary: 4 Stars
This is a fully illustrated guide to the three main methods of tailoring: custom tailoring done by hand, machine tailoring, and tailoring using fusible interfacing. The book is quite comprehensive, covering the entire process of making a tailored jacket from selecting the materials, including a detailed section on different types of interfacings, through fitting the pattern, cutting and marking, and all steps of construction for the three methods. There is an illustrated guide to the tools used in tailoring, detailed instructions for several kinds of pockets including patch pockets, lined patch pockets, welt pockets, single welt pockets and welt pockets with flaps, and a section on bound buttonholes. Linings are also covered, including hand installation of linings, machine installation of linings, partial linings, and how to make partial or full linings for an unlined jacket pattern. The book focuses on jackets with notched collars, explaining that these require the most tailoring, but shawl collars are also covered. Other types of collars are not specifically addressed.
The book is clear and comprehensive, and a great choice for anyone wishing to learn tailoring. I do have a few criticisms. Some things are explained in great detail, such as the pockets and a section on threads, equipment and techniques for hand sewing. Some others are not and omit a few details that would have been helpful. For instance, the book explains that taping the front is done in custom tailoring but not necessary in machine or fusible tailoring, and it clearly explains how to tape the front step by step and with full color photo illustration. It doesn't explain why taping the front is important or what it does. I found out courtesy of one of Claire Schaeffer's couture patterns for Vogue that taping the front weights it so that the fronts of the jacket hang perpendicular to the floor even when the jacket is open instead of slanting. The book mentions jump pleats in the lining section but doesn't explain how to form one. There is a section comparing the three methods and examples of how one might use a combination of methods, but it doesn't really explain the pros and cons of each method. The author also seems to have a few personal biases, such as recommending against silk as a lining material because it can get water stains under the arms.
Overall it is a very good guide but I would recommend supplementing it with other books if you really want to get into the subject.
Book Review: Good for jackets
Summary: 5 Stars
The book is well written and has good illustrations. It offers machine stitching alternatives to the hand pad stitching, which may be of use to women who are tailoring their own jackets but do not have the time to sit and do the stitching by hand. This machine stitched version is the only part that I might consider using as an alternative to the hand stitching. I am not a fan of iron-on interfacing and would not use it in a tailored jacket, but I know someone might and the book shows how it can be used to give a decent look to a tailored jacket.
I would recommend this book for anyone wanting to tailor a jacket. I still prefer Adele Margolis and Ethel Wyllie as my references for tailoring, but this is a good updated version with easy to follow instructions, especially for someone who has never tailored a jacket.
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