Surfing and the Meaning of Life
by Ben Marcus
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Book Summary Information
Author: Ben MarcusPhotographer: Ben Marcus
Photographer: Jeff Divine
Edition: Hardcover
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 2006-08-31
ISBN: 0760326533
Number of pages: 96
Publisher: Voyageur Press
Book Reviews of Surfing and the Meaning of Life
Book Review: Can You Carry the Bonzai Pipeline with You? Yes, with This Portable Book!
Summary: 5 Stars
Some of my most vivid memories are watching the big surf at the Bonzai Pipeline on Oahu. I remember one day that it was so high that no one was in the water. But other times, brave men and women took up the challenge and the view was astonishing. While I can remember these scenes quite well, it's great fun look at photographs of these and similar scenes.
I travel a lot and don't want to carry heavy books when I do. Surfing and the Meaning of Life is just the right size to warm up my spirits during winter travel in snowy climes. Each page has a great quote, a wonderful photograph and a brief text. The photographs were well chosen to be clear in this book's small-page format. A lot of my favorite surfing quotes are included as well.
I cannot imagine how a better value could be produced for such a small price.
Let me give you one word of caution, however: My review copy was bound before the ink was dry so more than a dozen pages were stuck together in ways that harmed the photographs when I opened the pages. Two photographs were devastated by this problem. The binding also wasn't quite in alignment so the centers of the pages didn't appear properly (an extra image often shows up in a sliver of the middle). I guess this Chinese printer isn't quite up to the standards of some others I've seen. Check your book when it arrives . . . you may have to return it for a better copy. As a result, it will be risky to send this book directly from Amazon.com as a gift to someone -- look at the copy you send before you ship it off.
Summary of Surfing and the Meaning of Life
All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole style-even a philosophy-of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life-or at least an enjoyable read.
With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton-and with photographs that capture the thrill of the ride-this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks in Fade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humor-and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush.
The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."-Nat Young
With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton-and with photographs that capture the thrill of the ride-this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks in Fade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humor-and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush.
The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."-Nat Young
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