Surf Science
by Tony Butt, Paul Russell, Rick Grigg
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Book Summary Information
Author: Paul Russell, Rick Grigg, Tony ButtEdition: Paperback
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 2004-07
ISBN: 0824828917
Number of pages: 144
Publisher: University of Hawaii Press
Book Reviews of Surf Science
Book Review: Great book for the surfer who wants to know why waves form. Highly recommended.
Summary: 5 Stars
Great book for those who want to understand the ocean more. There are some really science heavy concepts in the book that the authors explain well. It's a bit like condensing physics, oceanography, meteorology, and math (among other disciplines) into a short book. A big task. For those wanting to understand the ocean more, it's a great book. Great illustrations, and written much like a college level textbook.
One last thing. This book is about the science of waves, not a how-to book about surfing. If you want to surf better, go surf more. If you want to understand the science behind how waves form, then this is a great book.
Summary of Surf Science
Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it--just curiosity and a fascination for waves.Reference Books
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