Surf Is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez
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Book Reviews of Surf Is Where You Find It
Book Review: I simply got caught inside
Summary: 5 Stars
The book is made of several stories which have a lesson in both surfing and life. I loved the fact that Gerry talked about fear and how he has been confronted by the sea several times, i guess its the first time an iconic surfer like him gives us a glimpse of their inner thoughts while surfing.
Personally we always see people like Gerry like stone cold people that are not afraid of anything, but after reading this book i realized that where they excel is in the way they confront their fears.
Funny enough a few days ago I was surfing and a rogue set was on its way to devour me, for a split second i doubted and got very negative thoughts, but then i remembered the phrase ... when in doubt paddle out and started a frenzy paddle and made it =)
The book is great, i will treasure several of the lessons in it.
thanks Gerry !
Book Review: Stories from the Master
Summary: 5 Stars
A collection of stories but when they are told by "Mr. Pipeline" they carry a little more weight. This in some ways is a great historical perspective of surfing, particularly in Hawaii, and surfboard design as Gerry was there from the late 60s till now to document new designs, first time surfed spots, and evolution of simple items like board leashes. This is a very good book that most long-time surfers will want to read that I strongly recommend with the added benefit of many great color pictures of Gerry surfing nice waves.Book Review: Perfect summer read
Summary: 5 Stars
I'll keep this brief because so many have already commented on this book. This is a great summer read. Gerry's stories are varied, interesting, and have a soul. This makes me want to travel and get in the water.