Surf Is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez
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Book Summary Author: Gerry Lopez Edition: Paperback Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published) Published: 2009-05-01 ISBN: 0979065917 Number of pages: 246 Publisher: Patagonia Inc. |
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Book Reviews of the Surf Is Where You Find It
Customer Review: I simply got caught inside
Summary: 5 Stars
The book is made of several stories which have a lesson in both surfing and life. I loved the fact that Gerry talked about fear and how he has been confronted by the sea several times, i guess its the first time an iconic surfer like him gives us a glimpse of their inner thoughts while surfing.
Personally we always see people like Gerry like stone cold people that are not afraid of anything, but after reading this book i realized that where they excel is in the way they confront their fears.
Funny enough a few days ago I was surfing and a rogue set was on its way to devour me, for a split second i doubted and got very negative thoughts, but then i remembered the phrase ... when in doubt paddle out and started a frenzy paddle and made it =)
The book is great, i will treasure several of the lessons in it.
thanks Gerry !