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Pipe Dreams : A Surfer's Journey by Kelly Slater
Book Summary InformationAuthor: Kelly Slater Edition: Hardcover Audio: English (Published) Format: Bargain Price Published: 2003-08-01 ISBN: N/A Number of pages: 352 Publisher: HarperEntertainment
Book Reviews of Pipe Dreams : A Surfer's JourneyBook Review: Waiting for One More Wave Summary: 3 StarsHurricane Bertha is kicking up swell in the middle of the Atlantic. It's already dark and I've just come back from watching about 40 surfers catch waves down at Sebastian inlet. I watched them all finish up their set and catch a final wave while they could still see the bodies of other surfers bobbing in front of them. As I walked back to the parking area along the top of the jetty I looked back into the surf and could barely make out one last guy in the water waiting for his last wave. Since there was only one guy left I fancied that it was Kelly Slater, trying to catch one more before going in. I would like to meet Kelly Slater, the man, the champion, the surfing legend. I just finished reading Pipe Dreams--a Surfer's Journey, a little late since it was published in 2003. Co-written by Slater and Jason Borte a surfer/writer/teacher from Virginia Beach, VA, it's a nice book, with quaint stories about Kelly's journey from grommet to manhood to world champion -- 6 times (the book stopped before his world title career continued). Unfortunately it does not read like the life of a world champion -- it is not a world class biography. It reads more like like it was written for his fan club -- with short anecdotal accounts of his formative years followed by even shorter accounts of the many repetitive competitions required to capture six world tour victories. Since Slater is in the upper stratosphere when it comes to his craft -- where only world class talent belongs -- his book should also have world class appeal -- sadly it does not. I lay the blame at the feet of his co-author and perhaps his editor. I don't know much about surfing, and I probably know even less about surfing after reading Pipe Dreams. This is a shame. Slater hints of a second book where he details some secrets to surfing. This would probably be a better story. That's not to say Slater's story shouldn't have world class appeal -- it has too -- the story just isn't told in this book. Kelly Slater is now an eight-time world champion -- that puts him in extremely rare company, dare I say Lance Armstrong. What you can barely glean from the narrative is that Kelly Slater is a deep introspective person -- hugely complex and sophisticated in his thoughts -- this is readily apparent in his life story yet you do not get this directly from the pages, you must read between the lines and theorize that there is way more to what we are being told -- I hope there is, otherwise Slater has lived a very shallow life. Perhaps a surfer's journey is shallow -- but I doubt it. This book is a must read for all surfers, young and old and at heart, so they can say they've read Slater's book, but it is no better than the the worst written TV shows or movies about surfers it criticizes. When a world class athlete decides to write a book, they have to go with world class help -- please Kelly -- for the sake of your fan's and for the sake of your profession, get some help with the next one. I'll be waiting for that wave. This one gets three stars because I finished it without too much trouble and the awesome cover jacket (which ironically is world class).
Summary of Pipe Dreams : A Surfer's JourneyI thought, Pfft, come on. People from Australia are world champions ... But a world champion from Florida? Fuhged-daboudit. Cocoa Beach, Florida, isn't exactly a breeding ground for surfing world champions -- the waves are tiny. So when Kelly Slater was growing up, the furthest thing from his mind was becoming a world champion. He was a Florida grommet whose biggest goal was to one day make it out far enough to catch the two-foot waves his dad and brother were riding -- anything more was a dream. Life in the Slater household wasn't perfect, and as his parents' marriage fell apart and his father battled alcoholism, Slater escaped to the beach and found peace on a surfboard. He devoured surf magazines, sat spellbound while watching surfing movies, and worshiped the gods of the sport who threw themselves into thundering walls of water along the North Shore of Hawaii and around the world. Slater never thought he'd move beyond the Florida shore breaks, but his insatiable thirst for competition and uncanny -- almost innate -- understanding of the physics of surfing destined him for waves and events much bigger than anything Cocoa Beach had to offer. In Pipe Dreams, Slater takes you inside a churning Pipeline tube and lets you experience the rush of adrenaline and danger. He pays tribute to close friends who lost their lives surfing big waves and tells what life on the World Tour is really like, from schmoozing with celebrities to running from stalker fans to the insane competition and off-the-wall antics of the world's most famous surfers -- including Tom Curren, Tom Car-roll, Gary Elkerton, Mark Occhilupo, Rob Machado, and Shane Dorian. Slater also explains his various career moves, such as his stint as a regular on Baywatch, and the ups and downs of his love life -- from his on-again, off-again romance with Pamela Anderson to Bree, his first love, and their broken engagement. Pipe Dreams offers unprecedented access to the globetrotting lifestyle and the rarely seen private life of the man who destroyed every record in a sport long dominated by people who thought world champions didn't grow up in Florida, himself included. Slater holds nothing back, because after six world titles, there is nothing left to prove -- not to himself or to anyone else.
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