Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor
by Peter Reinhart
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Book Summary Information
Author: Peter ReinhartPhotographer: Ron Manville
Edition: Hardcover
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 2007-08
ISBN: 1580087590
Number of pages: 320
Publisher: Ten Speed Press
Book Reviews of Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor
Book Review: New procedures, great taste: update
Summary: 5 Stars
I'm revising this review now that I have considerable experience with the book and have seen a class on it by Chef Reinhart. I am tremendously enthusiastic about it. At this point I have made whole wheat, several variations on rye, the miche, anadama, mash, the focaccia, whole wheat mash, 'spent-grain' (uses leftovers from beer making). I've made both hearth and loaves, and on the ones where you can use a buttermilk biga or your mother starter I've done both. I have had NO failures. A sheet pan of the focaccia serves two. (:->
This 'epoxy' method sounds complicated but it actually is very, very fast compared to traditional methods, and very simple. To say that you make the loaves over two days makes it sound rather ominous, but the fact is that the stuff on the first day occupies maybe half an hour at most. Later that day you just remember to stuff the biga or starter part into the frig, but it is very fault-tolerant as to time. The second day has a predictable timeline that is just like making one-day bread -- and you get to pick the second day out of the next several, so if something comes up, just leave it in the frig.
Some tips:
a. When the book says 'tacky', it means about as sticky as the sticky part of a post-it note.
b. Get some powder-free latex gloves (I got mine at Safeway) and put one on your strongest hand to mix / knead the soakers and bigas the first day, right in a small bowl. No need to get the mixer out, just measure, squeeze, squeeze, fold, fold, throw away the glove and you're done.
c. Best tip in the book: if you need to add both oil and honey, do the oil first and the honey won't stick to the spoon. See page 98 for other tips.
d. White whole wheat (as sold by King Arthur, for example) ought to be sweeping the country. I make my mother starter out of it and then if I need to make a bread that normally uses a white-bread starter, the color is unnoticeable. Unless you are a purist, you don't need a bunch of different starters.
e. Agave instead of honey is interesting.
Original review follows:
This book is not for beginners. You should have some experience with the various kinds of recipes in the The Bread Baker's Apprentice. It is also not an omnibus bread baking book -- even the cinnamon buns (gasp!) are whole grain.
Importantly, the rhythm of the process is really much easier. You make two parts, a 'soaker' (flour salt buttermilk, for example) and a riser part (sourdough starter or a small amount of yeast, flour, water). It takes 15-20 minutes and you're done, and later in the day you come back and put the 'riser' in the fridge. That's similar to what you are used to from TBBA or refreshing your starter.
The second day you put the two parts together with a considerable amount of yeast and some recipe-specific ingredients, knead it a little, and let it rise. With all that yeast in there it is going to rise in a short, predictable time, and that's what I liked -- I had a good idea when I would need to be there for shaping and baking.
The book production people should get a lot of credit. There are lots of helpful photos and the layouts are clean and pleasant, and easy to read.
I have found consistently that I need more liquid than called for in both books. The author makes the point that you have to adjust for your local flour, humidity, etc. Believe it.
Since the book is new I have limited experience but the outcomes so far are fantastic. Now if I was only not so bad at shaping...
More Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor reviews:
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Summary of Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Breads: New Techniques, Extraordinary Flavor
We know whole grain breads are better for us, but will we actually eat them, much less take time to bake them?Yes, says beloved baking instructor Peter Reinhart, but only if they are very, very good. So Reinhart, with his decades of experience crafting amazing artisanal breads, has made it his mission to create whole grain breads that are nothing short of incredible.
In this follow-up to his award-winning book The Bread Baker?s Apprentice, Reinhart offers groundbreaking methods for making whole grain breads that taste better than any you?ve ever had. And because his approach is also simpler and less labor intensive than conventional techniques, you?ll choose to make and eat these breads. His fifty-five recipes for whole grain sandwich, hearth, and specialty breads, plus bagels, crackers, and more, incorporate widely available whole wheat flour as well as other flours and grains such as rye, barley, steel-cut oats, cornmeal, and quinoa. Each is so rich with flavor and satisfying texture that white-flour counterparts pale in comparison.
Written in Reinhart?s famously clear style and accompanied by inspiring photographs, these recipes were perfected with the help of nearly 350 testers. Introductory chapters provide a tutorial, with step-by-step photographs, of the delayed fermentation method that is at the heart of these recipes, as well as a crash course in baking science, discussions of grains other than wheat, and more. Advanced bakers will relish Reinhart?s innovative techniques and exacting scientific explanations, and beginning bakers will rejoice in the ease of baking wholesome breads with such extraordinary flavor.
Peter Reinhart is a baking instructor and faculty member at Johnson and Wales University in Charlotte, North Carolina. He was the cofounder of Brother Juniper?s Bakery in Santa Rosa, California, and is the author of six books on bread baking, including Brother Juniper?s Bread Book, Crust and Crumb, and the 2002 James Beard Cookbook of the Year and IACP Cookbook of the Year, The Bread Baker?s Apprentice.
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