No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks

No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks
by Ed Viesturs, David Roberts

No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks
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Book Summary Information

Author: David Roberts, Ed Viesturs
Edition: Paperback
Audio: English (Original Language); English (Unknown); English (Published)
Published: 2007-11-27
ISBN: 0767924711
Number of pages: 384
Publisher: Broadway

Book Reviews of No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks

Book Review: An honest look at a down to earth hero
Summary: 5 Stars

Viesturs is honest, polite (almost to a fault :), humble and amazingly experienced. That experience is tempered with an uncommon degree of caution and willingness to compromise in the interest of safety - this is how climbing should be done. His account of the 1996 Everest calamity is moving, largely because of his close ties to some of the victims.

Viesturs also briefly describes the trials encountered by J.C. Lafaille on an earlier Annapurna attempt, which is described at greater length in Lafaille's book "Prisionero del Annapurna" - unfortunately the book is in French, this is an account that desperately needs to be translated to English! It has been translated to German, but my mastery of either language is pitifully inadequate. Lafaille endured a self-rescue as harrowing and desperate as Joe Simpson's in Touching The Void, if not more so given the extremity of the terrain. After reading about Viesturs' climb with Lafaille on Annapurna, I find that Lafaille is a climber I would much like to learn more about.

Summary of No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks

This gripping and triumphant memoir follows a living legend of extreme mountaineering as he makes his assault on history, one 8,000-meter summit at a time.

For eighteen years Ed Viesturs pursued climbing's holy grail: to stand atop the world's fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, without the aid of bottled oxygen. But No Shortcuts to the Top is as much about the man who would become the first American to achieve that goal as it is about his stunning quest. As Viesturs recounts the stories of his most harrowing climbs, he reveals a man torn between the flat, safe world he and his loved ones share and the majestic and deadly places where only he can go.

A preternaturally cautious climber who once turned back 300 feet from the top of Everest but who would not shrink from a peak (Annapurna) known to claim the life of one climber for every two who reached its summit, Viesturs lives by an unyielding motto, "Reaching the summit is optional. Getting down is mandatory." It is with this philosophy that he vividly describes fatal errors in judgment made by his fellow climbers as well as a few of his own close calls and gallant rescues. And, for the first time, he details his own pivotal and heroic role in the 1996 Everest disaster made famous in Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air.

In addition to the raw excitement of Viesturs's odyssey, No Shortcuts to the Top is leavened with many funny moments revealing the camaraderie between climbers. It is more than the first full account of one of the staggering accomplishments of our time; it is a portrait of a brave and devoted family man and his beliefs that shaped this most perilous and magnificent pursuit.

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