Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring
by R. I. Davis
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Book Summary Information
Author: R. I. DavisEdition: Paperback
Audio: English (Original Language); English (Unknown); English (Published)
Published: 1996-01
ISBN: 0887346480
Number of pages: 150
Publisher: Players Press
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Book Reviews of Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring
Book Review: Fabulous Resource!
Summary: 4 Stars
This book is the first book I turn to for period tailoring. The drafts create wonderful period shapes. It is invaluable to me as a costumer. It is a MUST HAVE in any serious costumer's library.
Please note that this book is for DRAFTING PATTERNS. It contains little information on how to tailor a coat. Pattern drafts are available for:
1. Dress Coats
2. Frock coats and Morning Coats
3. Jackets
4. Trousers, Pantaloons, and Knickerbreeches
5. Waistcoats (Vests)
6. Topcoats
(this list is taken directly from the table of contents)
So why not 5 stars?
The book uses the same sleeve or collar draft for several different coats. However, at the end of each draft, it doesn't tell you where the corresponding sleeve or collar draft is. It is irritating to have to go searching for it. It would have taken one little line of text referring to a page number. Someday when I have nothing better to do and a good chunk of time, I will go through and write in such information.
Additionally, the drafts don't always let you know exactly what you are drafting and how it relates to the body. Most of the drafts have a dropped shoulder line, for example, but you don't know how far it is dropped and are therefore unsure where to balance the sleeve.
It is hard to have the draft picture and instructions on different pages, which happens frequently. I will usually copy one or the other so I don't have to keep flipping back and forth.
I have a few suggestions which might make the drafts results better.
This book creates a draft almost solely based on the chest measurement, using fractions of the chest measurement in order to find certain distances. This works well on a well-proportioned gentleman. Beware, however, of using this draft straight-up for a man whose chest measurement is the same or smaller than their waist! Always check the waist when you are finished drafting. You may have to adjust.
Another suggestion is to go ahead and preemptively drop the lower armscye 1.5"! I have no idea how any man could look good with their coat bunching up in their armpit. R.I. Davis knows his stuff, but on this point he confuses me. You will be happy you don't have to re-draft the sleeve later.
I have used this book for a few years now and wouldn't go anywhere without it. It is available on and off from Amazon but it can be found elsewhere new for around $30. Contact me if you need more information.
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