How to Climb: Advanced Rock Climbing
by John Long, Craig Luebben, George Meyers, Julie Garrison

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Book Reviews of How to Climb: Advanced Rock Climbing

Book Review: Excellent book on this sport
Summary: 5 Stars

The book contains a wealth of detail and information on rock climbing and much space is devoted to climbing techniques and strategies. I didn't know there were so many different kinds of grips and holds one could perform, and how they'd been adapted to specific situations and needs, but it was very interesting reading about that, and I discuss some of that further below.

The book is divided into seven chapters: Face Climbing, Crack Climbing, Rapelling, Sport Climbing, Adventure Climbing (this was one of the most interesting chapters), Training, and Self-Rescue.

Each outdoor sport has its own special vernacular and and special skills and techniques and rock climbing is no different. As I said, there's so much info here it would be hard to pick and choose a topic, but I did want to mention one thing I found interesting, which was the crack climbing and crack skills. The authors say you have to become "crack fluent" and must develop at least some competence in this since they point out that historical big walls and free routes invariably follow crack systems. To become a true "crack-master" requires patience, practice, and technique. Cracks vary greatly. Some cracks are so small that all you can do is use fingers jams. Other cracks are bigger and you can get your whole hand in the crack and use a hand or a fist jam, and several of those are discussed too.

Cracks are noted for requiring "an even combination of applied technique and physical enfurance." One of the special techniques for very narrow cracks is the "finger stack" and "butterfly jam." In the former you put your hand into the crack and stack the index. middle, and ring fingers against one another and vigorously twist downward. The butterfly jam involves placing the thumb into the crack and stacking the fingers against it. These are just a few of the dozens of special techniques that were discussed and that I learned about in this book. All of the different finger and hand jams and other techniques are fully illustrated so you can see exactly what's going on.

The authors also spend some time discussing the dangers of free-soloing and climbing in general. One author (C.L.) said he knows 14 climbers who had died in the last 6 years alone. This sobering statistic certainly points up the dangers of rock climbing, and yet the authors say that more and more people are being attracted into the sport. So as I said, while I doubt I'll ever try this myself, I found it interesting to read about and learn something about what's involved.

This is an excellent book on the subject which will be of use mainly to already experienced and skilled participants in this interesting and exciting but very risky sport.

Summary of How to Climb: Advanced Rock Climbing

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