Cheese Primer
by Steven Jenkins
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Book Summary Information
Author: Steven JenkinsEdition: Paperback
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 1996-11-01
ISBN: 0894807625
Number of pages: 576
Publisher: Workman Publishing Company
Book Reviews of Cheese Primer
Book Review: Essential!
Summary: 5 Stars
The book is required reading for anyone claiming to have a serious interest in cheese or, for that matter, food (excepting certain dietary restrictions, of course). After explaining the history, manufacturing and aging processes, and identifying and describing the various cheese categories that result from those processes, Jenkins then takes the reader on a world tour of important cheese-producing countries, and on a region-by-region basis introduces him to the important indigenous cheeses, their variations, their histories, and which other cheeses--if any--are similar. Tips on how to buy (including what to look for and what to avoid), serving suggestions, and the wines and side dishes that best partner each selection are also included; the storage tips are invaluable (and most cost-effective). Also included are some easy, KICKIN' recipes, including one for the best corn chowder I've ever tasted (cut the dill by half, though). The reader is not only made aware of the existence and availability of cheeses of which he's never heard, but which--based on their description--he might be most inclined to enjoy. In fact, if this book possesses any flaw at all (excepting the crummy paper already noted by previous reviewers), it's that it could really use an update--many cheeses have come and gone since its first appearance, and some listed are now--horrors--made from pasteurized milk.
It's indeed unfortunate that our government, in its infinite wisdom, has taken upon itself the responsibility for protecting us from the dangers of <60-days-old cheeses made from raw milk. I suppose their hands are tied though, in view of the fact that consumers in other, less-enlightened parts of the world are dropping like flies due to their consumption of these deadly cheeses. Indeed, one is forced to wonder how, in light of such devastation, anyone is even left to manufacture these lethal foodstuffs. Fortunately, we'll be avenged for Pearl Harbor: European cheese producers can't keep up with Japanese demand for raw milk cheeses. (Is my bitterness at this stupidity apparent yet? Forgive me; a Libertarian-type rant, especially where my tastebuds are concerned, is often a good catharsis.)
I'm lucky enough to be able to pick Steve's brain personally while doing my shopping at Fairway in NYC, and have been doing so at every opportunity for the last several years. This is not only rewarding for the most obvious reason--that I learn from a master about the four foods that most interest me: cheese, olive oil, honey, and balsamic--but it also provides the ego-enhancing benefit of having him take my own food tips and experiences seriously when I have any to pass along. Fairway is a unique shopping experience that can be likened to visiting friends who happen to purvey an eclectic range of foods at great prices; indeed, it really is "like no other market." It's the pleasantest, most rewarding food shopping in Manhattan and I'm proud to include Steve as a friend.
FLASH! Cheese Primer is now a shiny hardcover! All else is the same, but it's now more or less kitchen-proof and a lot sturdier. Nice touch!
Summary of Cheese Primer
Steven Jenkins is our foremost cheese authority--in the words of The New York Times, "a Broadway impresario whose hit is food." Now, after years of importing cheeses, scouring the cheese-producing areas of the world, and setting up cheese counters at gourmet food shops, he's decided to write it all down. Full of passion, knowledge, and an expert's considered opinions the cheese primer tells you everything you need to know about the hundreds of cheeses that have, in the last few years, become available in this country. Region-by-region, he covers all the major cheeses from France, Italy, Switzerland--the top tier of cheese-producing countries--plus the best of Britain, Ireland, Spain, the United States, Austria, Germany, and other countries. Along the way he tells how to pick out a healthy Pont l'Eveque; why to reconsider the noble Fontina for more than just cooking; how to avoid those factory-made chevres; why to seek out the sublime Vacherin Mont d'Or; and how to start exploring--Bleu de Bresse, Cabrales, Crottin de Chavignol, and so on. A complete primer, it includes information on the best ways to store and serve cheese, including which wines to serve alongside them; how to orchestrate a proper cheese course; and the unimportable cheeses to look up when abroad.If you want a fascinating food book, say Cheese Primer. For 20 years, Steve Jenkins has lead the way in upgrading the quality of cheese sold at fine food stores in the U.S. Finally, in this volume, he shares his encyclopedic knowledge. Jenkins tells all about cheesemaking at the commercial as well as the artistic level. Generously punctuated with maps and photos, the book includes all kinds of historical and other relevant information. Jenkins seems to describe every kind of cheese made in the U.S. and Europe, including when to eat them, how and with what. His passion and blunt opinions make it easy to travel the 548 pages of this book if you have even the smallest interest in cheese. The guide to pronunciation is particularly helpful.
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