Charlie Trotter's Meat and Game
by Charlie Trotter, Michael Voltattorni, Tim Turner, Belinda Chang

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Book Reviews of Charlie Trotter's Meat and Game

Book Review: Meat & Game Extravaganza!
Summary: 5 Stars

These recipes are certainly difficult if not impossible for the average home chef, or even the sophisticated amateur gourmet as well. The ingredients are exotic and difficult to obtain (no source help is provided at all) and the techniques and difficulty of steps for each entree are staggering.

Not to despair however, for the interested gourmet. As Trotter himself suggests: "think of the recipes as interpretations found to be particularly pleasing. Look at these pages for inspiration and fresh ideas, then make the dishes your own, either by substitutions we have offered or through the endless possibilities evoked by the foodstuffs themselves." Further, nearly all recipes include suggested substitutes, e.g. for the Asian=Glazed Wild Boar Chop he suggests pork, lamb or chicken.

Especially attractive to this reviewer is the enormous collection of game: from grouse to partidge to quail to antelope, buffalo, venison, et al. Excitement from such as: "Roasted Chestnut Soup with Foie Gras, Cipolline Onions and Ginger," "Grilled Pheasant Breast with Wild Strawberries, Pistachios, and Apricot-Curry Sauce," Smoked Squab Breast with Israeli Couscous-Stuffed Tinker Bell Peppeers,Ennis Hazelnuts, and Savory Chocolate Vinagerette," "Asian Glazed Wild Boar Chop with Kimchi, Burgundy Carrots, and Their Puree."

True to his inspiration of fusion, he combines Western European technique without sauce, and in their place consistently and creatively replaces with Vinaigrette or Emulsion.

Suggest interested also check out Mark Miller's "Red Sage," Trotter's "CT Cooks at Home," and "How To Cook Meat" by Schlesinger.

Summary of Charlie Trotter's Meat and Game

In chapters devoted to game in all its manifestations--from antelope, boar, and grouse, to hare, partridge, and quail (and including also lamb, pig, rabbit, and duck, among others)--Trotter offers his glorious specialties. These include Sweet-and-Sour Braised Lettuce Soup with Foie Gras and Radishes; Steamed Pheasant Breast with Hen of the Woods Mushrooms, Black Trumpet Mushrooms, and Alba White Truffles; and Roasted Scottish Hare Loin with Green Garlic, Braised Tiny White Leeks, and Caper-Cornichon Egg White Vinaigrette. Trotter offers suggestions for substitutions (Venison with Mole and Cashew Vinaigrette can be made with beef, chicken, pork, or, interestingly, lobster) which, improved practicality aside, offer an expended sense of dish-creation Trotter-style. With wine notes, a section on "basic" preparations such as Shellfish Oil and Dried Pickle Chips, and a glossary, the book revels in a great chef's food dreams, which all can, in imagination at least, share. --Arthur Boehm

Game Books

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