Accidents in North American Mountaineering
by Jed Williamson
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Book Summary Information
Author: Jed WilliamsonBrand: Mountaineers Books
Edition: Paperback
Audio: English (Unknown); English (Original Language); English (Published)
Published: 2008-09
ISBN: 1933056088
Number of pages: 104
Publisher: American Alpine Club
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Book Reviews of Accidents in North American Mountaineering
Book Review: Highly and strongly recommended!
Summary: 5 Stars
I would 'strongly' recommend not only the 2008 book but the entire series! The price is right too! And regardless of your level of expertise whether it's rock climbing or Alpine version therein. It reminds me of my aviation interests [the real McCoy albeit SEL "single donkey" Cessna/Piper stuff] in terms of the 'very' popular with the "GA" [General Aviation] crowd, "I Learned About Flying From That" which eventually reached book form and the articles collected under one cover because so much could be 'learned' from the analysis of GA aviation close-calls, "stupendous errors of judgment" [sic] and 'survived' accidents. Or, conversely, with the book in question in this review, climbing accidents of whatever venue. Not to mention the stuff that has been forgotten or all too often filed away or, worse still, certain safety and 'common sense' considerations that can get ignored or put on the proverbial back-burner in the excitement or zeal of the moment. Do the words "summit fever" ring a bell?
True story -- one mountaineering website-master [and an authority on the sport] became so vexed at reporting so 'many' climbers [well experienced inclusive and not just novice climbers] being belayed "off the rope" into a fall [or oblivion therein with 'fatal' results], he wrote in desperation [and I back him 110%] with regard to the rappel belay rope, "Tie a friggin' knot at the end of the rope ... is that so damn hard to remember!" [sic] Or a careless moment of inattention and what the combination of an ice axe and crampons can do [** not to mention practicing self-arrest techniques where in one case the 'wrong end' [!] of the ice axe was used for the self-arrest and the novice says, "I thought the 'broad' end of the ice axe would have "a wider gripping power" [sic] than the 'pointy' end ... " [sic -- and in this particular case and specific type of axe, the broad adze end] -- as the long [and quite dangerous when aimed at the climber's face] business end of the ice axe was inches from the climber's head and face while the adze side of the ice axe was buried in the snow! Ohhh, it does happen!] or carabiners [** humorous sidebar -- because that word is not heard every day by those outside of the climbing/mountaineering/emergency services/ military or SWAT oriented folks, I once asked a college class of mine [the class I was giving was in European history], "Does anyone know what a 'carabiner' is?" ... and a volunteered answer was: "Isn't that a World War II German Army rifle?" You're smiling, yes, but fess up, years ago, and before your involvement in the above cited areas, did the word "adze" ring a bell with you?] where no-one notices that the weight is entirely resting on the biner 'gate' and countless other checks that 'should' be done. Ehhh, fess up now, you 'always' wear a helmet as a matter of course, right? And how many times have you read this one as the 'primary' cause of a rappel accident: "Misuse of a grigri" or another classic, "failure to check anchor." You know what I mean! And what was it the 'lead' said, "That weather will miss us for sure ... let's keep going!"
This too -- another book [now in its "7th" edition -- 2003 was the last one], "Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills" which, IMO, is 'the' mountaineering reference tome [500 pages +] to have on hand! A veritable goldmine of information but the North American 'accidents' series is an excellent adjunct to same and much can be learned. Or, shall we say, re-learned!
Doc Tony
Personal Note! Here's a website free of all advertisements including those annoying dancing GIF's and JPEG's or sales hype a la mode that offers ad free page after page of solid information [including accident assessment scenarios, gear discussion including GPS and map/compass stuff, how-to's, things to avoid [check out why that TV hawked 'space blanket' can actually 'hasten' the demise of a hypothermia victim], assorted you-name-it climbing/mountaineering topics, what's happening here and there from Hood to the Himalayas, links, tips, mountaineering organizations, Q&A stuff, etc. etc. ] -- traditionalmountaineering.org. [no need to use "WWW"].
PS: This just in! New 2008 publication by Pete Hill just out, "The Complete Guide to Climbing and Mountaineering" now available at Amazon. See my Amazon review on this excellent book. What I like about it, in particular, is that it does not 'assume' that the reader is some sort of 5.14d and/or Everest/K2 summiteer and thereby explains everything with accompanying color pictures and diagrams without the gaps on the assumption that the reader can fill in the blanks, so to speak, based on their 'assumed' collective experiences. The book is highly recommended!
Summary of Accidents in North American Mountaineering
This annual investigative handbook offers detailed reports of more than 60 climbing accidents that occurred in 1997. Analyses of what went wrong in each situation give experienced and beginning mountaineers the opportunity to learn from other climbers' mistakes. From inadequate protection, clothing, or equipment to inexperience, poor judgment, or simple ignorance, the errors recorded in this book are invaluable safety lessons for all climbers.Safety & First Aid Books
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